[MrDude_1]

Ok, maybe if your brain was bigger than your mouth you might understand what I am talking about. I understand there is a switch that kicks on the fan at a curtain temp, usually 185, which i thought was common knowledge.

lol, i cant tell if you're a kid, or just uneducated.
first. NEVER trust "common knowledge".. people regurgitate information they get online, without ever understanding it... so if someone says something wrong that "seems to make sense" to someone without knowledge on the subject, it becomes common knowledge.

second. its not called a switch that kicks it on. its a relay.
third, its kicked on around 220 something, by the ECM grounding the relay.

THAT is the issue im discussing.. if the ECM turned the fan on at 185, it would be ideal for us.. but it does not.

what a "fan switch mod" does, is ground the stock relay whenever the switch is flipped on.. so the RIDER can kick the fans on when they approach traffic in town, before the bike gets really fucking hot.

in otherwords, you had no fucking idea what i was talking about. thats ok. dont get pissy. heres a simple how-to on them for the 08+ bikes.. it shows pretty much what i mean: http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=68952&highlight=fan+switch

But what I am talking about is that it does not matter if you keep the switch on all the time or not, on a hot day (Not SC or wherever you’re from, but Phoenix 120+) water/antifreeze being pushed through the radiator that the air is flowing over is only going to cool down to a curtain point. If you don’t understand go ask a physics instructor or try reading a book and educate yourself.

this is true... its also why we dont have small dirtbike size radiators.
what you're trying to say is, the radiator is undersized for the bike... and thats not true... while you're correct that a fan is not going to hold the bikes temp really low, the "curtain point" (word is "certain point" btw) that equilibrium is reached, is well below where it will damage the bike.
if you re-read what i wrote, im not arguing that the fan will keep the bike ice cold. im pointing out how it SLOWS the RATE that it reaches the point of equilibrium.... and since we're not out idling our bikes for science, but riding them, by merely slowing the rate it rises, it makes it more comfortable to ride

but this point was probably missed because you missed my first point.. and you somehow think the ECM kicks the fan on at 185, when the damn bike really gets to 220 something before it does..(just like all modern cars)

2nd, idiot, the reason why the bike heats up sitting at the stop light is because the water pump in the motor is not moving as much fluid therefore not cooling as much as it would be when you are riding. It doesn’t matter if you are moving or not the fan is pulling ambient air over the radiator.

this is also a myth. the water pump is not undersized for the bike. if you feel the need to prove it to yourself, two thermocouples and a probe monitor could prove it to you. ask your friend the physics instructor... high school instructors have that kind of stuff. id ask my old physics PROFESSOR, however, i actually own a couple of them myself... because hey, i kinda did this stuff for a living... no not a dumbass tech, im a programmer that used to do alot of EFI work. lol.

Now what you can do is wrap your header and exhaust in heat wrap and keep that heart from the exhaust away from that part of the bike and will increase power because it will help the exhaust flow.

it also can rust out the header, but most people wreck or sell their bikes before that happens.
notice, i never argued that wont work.. however, the bike will still reach ungodly high temps sitting at a light, and then its uncomfortable.. you havent SOLVED it either, it only slowed the issue.. exactly the same thing im saying, except mine is actually more effective at keeping the bike cool.

That was the point I was making, sorry that you could not follow what I was saying. I guess you really can’t FIX STUPID. Also, most geniuses can’t spell, I guess that rules you out.
:beat:

actually, i misspelled ALOT of words... the real difference is i realized they were misspelled, went back and fixed it.
but i do think its cute you called yourself a genius.
at some point it doesnt matter how smart you are. it doesnt matter how great your deductive reasoning is, or your problem solving abilities... if you dont have the fundamental underlying education required for solving the problem, you'll only find the wrong or misleading solution. for example here, you didnt know when the fan came on. how it came on, and you have a very limited understanding of the cooling system... however you do realize the exhaust is hot, and that wrapping it would stop it from radiating heat.. hell, i'll even give you credit and assume that the "more power" part you realize is from the hotter gas moving faster, thereby providing more scavenging... but its obvious you're applying "textbook" knowledge to a subject that you have no SPECIFIC knowledge about.
:beat:

 

[LawnDart]

I think the engine getting hot is a bit more uncomfortable for the engine than it is for me. After all I am wearing full gear and it is 115 outside, the air blowing off of the engine doesn't feel any hotter than the heat wave coming off of the black top streets. I guess I am lucky to have an '07. Even in real heavy stop and go traffic it doesn't get above 225 and cools off as soon as I get moving again. I just do my best to stay off of busy roads and avoid lights that I know take 3 or 4 cycles to get through in the middle of the day.

This seems like a really old thread to be arguing in but those are some good points. The water is still circulating at idle but there isn't much air headed over the radiator with these little fans, still so long as the fan is actually working it isn't very likely to get hot and damage the bike so it is all good. Just go ride and avoid the traffic. I would rather ride side streets 25 miles to work than sit at the stupid lights, plus there are less photo radar things on the less traveled roads.

 

[jetblak1000rr]

lol, i cant tell if you're a kid, or just uneducated.
first. NEVER trust "common knowledge".. people regurgitate information they get online, without ever understanding it... so if someone says something wrong that "seems to make sense" to someone without knowledge on the subject, it becomes common knowledge.

Well looking at your other post, it seems that you have a problem with belittling others. Not really any good information comes from you, prolly why you are a programmer or claimed. I seriously doubt you even work on your own bikes. I surely hope you don’t and don’t think you should be advising others on theirs. Good people get hurt that way.

second. its not called a switch that kicks it on. its a relay.
third, its kicked on around 220 something, by the ECM grounding the relay.

THAT is the issue im discussing.. if the ECM turned the fan on at 185, it would be ideal for us.. but it does not.

what a "fan switch mod" does, is ground the stock relay whenever the switch is flipped on.. so the RIDER can kick the fans on when they approach traffic in town, before the bike gets really fucking hot.

Ok you completely wrong now, the cooling fan comes on at 215f and what does happen at 180 is the thermostat, thats the valve that allows the water to circulate through the system. The cooling fan is only for when you are stopped.

in otherwords, you had no fucking idea what i was talking about. thats ok. dont get pissy. heres a simple how-to on them for the 08+ bikes.. it shows pretty much what i mean: http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=68952&highlight=fan+switch






this is true... its also why we dont have small dirtbike size radiators.
what you're trying to say is, the radiator is undersized for the bike... and thats not true... while you're correct that a fan is not going to hold the bikes temp really low, the "curtain point" (word is "certain point" btw) that equilibrium is reached, is well below where it will damage the bike.
if you re-read what i wrote, im not arguing that the fan will keep the bike ice cold. im pointing out how it SLOWS the RATE that it reaches the point of equilibrium.... and since we're not out idling our bikes for science, but riding them, by merely slowing the rate it rises, it makes it more comfortable to ride

but this point was probably missed because you missed my first point.. and you somehow think the ECM kicks the fan on at 185, when the damn bike really gets to 220 something before it does..(just like all modern cars)



this is also a myth. the water pump is not undersized for the bike. if you feel the need to prove it to yourself, two thermocouples and a probe monitor could prove it to you. ask your friend the physics instructor... high school instructors have that kind of stuff. id ask my old physics PROFESSOR, however, i actually own a couple of them myself... because hey, i kinda did this stuff for a living... no not a dumbass tech, im a programmer that used to do alot of EFI work. lol.


it also can rust out the header, but most people wreck or sell their bikes before that happens.
notice, i never argued that wont work.. however, the bike will still reach ungodly high temps sitting at a light, and then its uncomfortable.. you havent SOLVED it either, it only slowed the issue.. exactly the same thing im saying, except mine is actually more effective at keeping the bike cool.

So back to the point of cooling dynamics, leave the computer stuff at the office this is not the same ball game. I'm a manufacturing Engineer and it’s my job to take the designs that the drafting and R&D team come up with and figure out how to make it work. So no I don’t design although i can and i dont manufacture although I can, I make stuff work and part of my schooling was not just physics but chemistry, metallurgy, fluid dynamics and the like. And yes the water pump is not sufficient at IDLE, the pump is indexed off of the motor and the fast the motor turns (RPM) the more water you circulate. At idle it does not matter how much air you blow over the radiator because the water pump is not rotating fast enough to bring the motor down to the temps you are talking about, PERIOD. Furthermore, if you had an outside temp of anything hotter than 130f you would have to cool with a different fluid with better cooling properties than water. You overheat because the water boils and this increases the pressure causing spewing fluid and gas. What I am getting at is that you are wasting money chasing a problem that cannot be solved, and if you were really into EFI you would re-map to run richer so the motor produces less heat. Don’t argue this, I’m right. And also, any performance guy knows that exhaust wrap rusting headers is a myth, i have worked around performance (blown nitro methane) cars my whole life and have never seen this. If you are worried about that, then change it, but water and acids make metal rust and at exhaust temps 1200f plus evaporation is the only thing you get.

actually, i misspelled ALOT of words... the real difference is i realized they were misspelled, went back and fixed it.
but i do think its cute you called yourself a genius.
at some point it doesnt matter how smart you are. it doesnt matter how great your deductive reasoning is, or your problem solving abilities... if you dont have the fundamental underlying education required for solving the problem, you'll only find the wrong or misleading solution. for example here, you didnt know when the fan came on. how it came on, and you have a very limited understanding of the cooling system... however you do realize the exhaust is hot, and that wrapping it would stop it from radiating heat.. hell, i'll even give you credit and assume that the "more power" part you realize is from the hotter gas moving faster, thereby providing more scavenging... but its obvious you're applying "textbook" knowledge to a subject that you have no SPECIFIC knowledge about.
:beat:

In closing I’ll say that we can open another post of topic and debate intelligence because people like you that make it a point to belittle others deserve no respect and therefore receive none. Unless you can help by adding something without cursing and building yourself up to something you’re not, don’t post anything. Big boys don’t act like you.

 

[MrDude_1]

your last post was so fucking dumb... i dont even know where to begin.

i could go point by point but honestly.... you're fucking stupid.

you mean to tell me you've worked on nitro cars your whole life? :th_SmlyROFL:

great! you hung out while daddy worked on cars that have nothing to do with the street vehicles we're talking about... having worked at a used car dealership would have been more relevant.

sorry i was off by 5* on when the fan kicked on.. my bad.


in closing, you're uneducated, and in a few years (assuming you dont splat yourself) i hope you come back, read this thread, and realize how fucking dumb you sound.
:gay:

 

[jetblak1000rr]

you could not argue point by point if you tried. Once again all you can manage to do is put people down and you never point out anything in error. Its not your fault, sometimes it hard to see your holding the short end of the stick and your parent lied to you about the short bus being cool. The fact of the matter remains that I out think you for the day before I roll out of bed in the morning.

Same something that requirs brain power and we can continue, until then sit in the corner try counting your fingers again and when you get that you can speak.

 

[jetblak1000rr]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stefan-Boltzmann

Educate yourself, if you can understand but I doubt it.

 

[jetblak1000rr]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermodynamics

Pay attension to Equilibrium thermodynamics

 

[MrDude_1]

would someone please idle their bike in-front of him?

thanks.

 

[jetblak1000rr]

would someone please idle their bike in-front of him?

thanks.

how about you expose the water pump and idle your own bike then rev the motor and watch it turn faster. Fans blowing over the radiator mean nothing if the water pump is barely moving the water through it.

I'm done with you.
:th_SmlyROFL::th_SmlyROFL::th_SmlyROFL::th_SmlyROFL::th_SmlyROFL::th_SmlyROFL::th_SmlyROFL::th_SmlyROFL::th_SmlyROFL::th_SmlyROFL::th_SmlyROFL::th_SmlyROFL::th_SmlyROFL::th_SmlyROFL::th_SmlyROFL::th_SmlyROFL:

 

[Jaspers_87]

would someone please idle their bike in-front of him?

thanks.

+1 opcorn2:

 

[MrDude_1]

how about you expose the water pump and idle your own bike then rev the motor and watch it turn faster. Fans blowing over the radiator mean nothing if the water pump is barely moving the water through it.

I'm done with you.

think about what you're saying.
if its true, they why dont our bikes overheat when they sit there and idle? hmmmmmm?

go get a IR gun ($15, dozens of uses) and measure the temp of water being pumped in and out of the radiator at idle. just point it at the hoses or the end tanks of the radiator near the hoses.

basically what im saying is, you're wrong, but if i go on trying to prove it to you, it makes me the idiot.

 

[jetblak1000rr]

That is the point that i am trying to make!! What the original point was that even here in az in the mid of summer in sit and go traffic the cooling system in a whole can only cool the motor down so far. The original question was if there was something that can be done to keep it cooler, here in az, in sit and go traffic. My point is that 230 is where my bike settles out highway or sit and go and that temp is not going to hurt the bike. That is the point, so if i didnt make myself clear or the point was not clear enough then i am wrong. But unless your cooling with a closed circut system, like the liquid cooled computers or the like, thats what you get on a 120 temp day. But in the fall or spring when its 75 my bike never goes about 185, once again thats all i'm saying.

 

[LeeterBike]

opcorn2::loco:
This thread was absolutly annoying... i wish i could go back to page 3 and stop... Started looking to the best easy solution to cooler idle temp and found an argument and thermodynamics lesson... Ill wrap the header in tape, sounds like my best bet... Does the header actually rust on 08+?

 

[LawnDart]

Wow this is back again?

I have been riding in AZ for 20 years and have yet to break a bike from getting too hot. Just ride it like normal, do the scheduled maintenance to ensure everything stays working, and it will be fine. Even on a hot as hell 120 degree day it won't go over 225 (maybe 230) at a stop light and then it comes right back down when you get moving. I just do my best to plot a course that avoids traffic when I leave the house in afternoons.

And yes you can rust holes even in stainless steel if you wrap it.

 

[LeeterBike]

I didnt know if titanium rusts... Im not a big fan of 230 degree air blowing on my legs, if its a little cooler under the hood it would be a lot easier sitting still...

 

[LawnDart]

I didnt know if titanium rusts... Im not a big fan of 230 degree air blowing on my legs, if its a little cooler under the hood it would be a lot easier sitting still...

I don't think it exactly rusts, but it gets brittle under the right circumstances and cracks. That would be bad too I am guessing.

 

[Thor001]

word, annoying thread. Hasn't anyone figured out a part number for a 195 degree fan thermo switch yet? No doubt, combustion engines make the more power at 160F-195F.

 

[05Bladerunner]

Get a Fan control switch. I turn my fan on manually at red lights when the bike reaches 180 degrees. I turn it back off when I get going again. I have the XS Boost fan control. The fan will still come automatically if you don't turn it on manually but it gives you the choice to manually turn it on whenever you feel like it. Good luck.
http://www.xsboostperformance.com/catalog/index.php?manufacturers_id=12

 

[Thor001]

Yeah dude, i know. I don't want a manual fan switch. I want the correct thermo switch that should have been put on it in the first place.

 

[Thor001]

OK, check out this soloution from one of the TL1000R boards. Basically, the switches are out there but there is no cross reference for them. I don't have my CBR here. Can anyone tell me what the TFS bolt size and thread pitch are for the CBR?

http://www.tlzone.net/forums/suzuki...forums/suzuki-tl1000r-tl1000s-forum/114505-fan-switch-mod-kit-any-interest.html